Zafira ignition switch replacement?

Unfortunately, the metal end from the key barrel which engages in the
switch has recently broke off.

I have now had the ignition barrel replaced, but the switch looks
like
it might also be damaged by the broken metal end.
It needs wiggled around to engage.
I have removed the switch, together with the wiring connector on the
back of it.
The hole in which the metal end engaged is very worn, so I have got a
new switch.

Unfortunately, I cannot seem to separate the old switch from the
wiring connector.
The Haynes manual says to poke a screwdriver in a hole to depress a
catch, and then prise them apart.
I can see the catch on the new switch, and how this might work.
I have tried it, but it is acting as if the catch is still engaged.

Anyone got any hints as to how to do this. I suspect that there is
some "knack" to it.

Many Thanks for any help.

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You also need to turn the key at the same time as pressing it - it is to
either position 1 or 2 - can't remember which but you will soon find out.

 

Thanks for your help me140. I will try that tomorrow.

Anyone know an easy way to get the ignition barrel out to refit this
switch?


The Haynes manual says that the steering wheel must be removed to get
to a pin on the top of the barrel which must be depressed.

The garage that replaced the ignition barrel had managed to remove the
barrel in a matter of minutes, so I suspect that there is an easier
way than Haynes described.

Thanks Again,

Ken

Many T

 

if you take the wiper switch out - just push the tabs at the top and bottom
and it slides out - you will see a small round hole. Push something into
hole as you turn the key to position 2 and the barrel will pull out.
Before you refit it you need to reset the column lock - look into the hole
the barrel came out and you will see a lever in about the 4 o'clock
position. Push it down with a screw driver till it clicks and then barrel
will slide straight back in.
Hope this helps.

 

Many Thanks me140,

I got the old switch and the connector separated as you suggested, but
it did take a suprisingly large amount of force to part them in the
end.

Got the ignition barrel out easily using the method you suggested,
much easier than Haynes method.

I have now got it all back together.

I am not having much luck with this though.

Key postion 1

 

Many Thanks me140,

I got the old switch and the connector separated as you suggested,
but
it did take a suprisingly large amount of force to part them in the
end. The catch would not seem to release, and broke off in the end.

Got the ignition barrel out easily using the method you suggested,
much easier than Haynes method.


I have now got it all back together.


I am not having much luck with this though.

Key position 0 - No dash lights on - as expected.
Key postion 1 - Dash lights come on. (They should not till position
2)
Key position 2 - Dash lights on as expected
Key position 3 - Starter turns as expected.
Returing the key to position 0, the engine is still running.
Engine does not stop until key is removed.

I guess this might be an MOT failure.

I have removed the ignition barrel a few times, and adjusted the
rotation of the slot in the switch, but the barrel will only go in
when the slot is aligned in the one
position that has the problem described above.

It is as if the switch is faulty - which seems unlikely.
After my experience removing the old one I am not sure I could part it
from its connector without damaging it.

I am going to have a think about this one.
Any ideas / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ken

 

You need to check a couple of things.
1)Is the electric bit of the switch located correctly? Make sure that the 2
lumps on it that fasten to the housing are in the right place. The front one
is a grub screw but I think rear one is a fixed pin and you need to press
new block on quite hard to get it on.
2) Is the multi plug on in the right position. You can pop the black plastic
cover off the back of the multi plug to get to the wires - you will then see
where you need to press the tab in to get the elec block off the barrel.

Where abouts in the country are you?

 

Thanks Again,

I think the electric bit of the switch is on properly.
It seems a solid and good fit.
The slot in the switch seems to be aligned with the hole in the
cylinder.
I will have another look tomorrow.

I'll try popping the black plastic cover off and dismantling again and
checking as you suggest.

I am in Milton Keynes. I work in Cambridge. I visit Nottingham quite
often.

Many Thanks again for your help.

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