Zafira alarm - pane sensor problems

FYI,

I may have finally cured the pane sensor fault at almost zero cost, although
others may not agree it is actually a cure

I had the tech2 diagnosis and it showed up multiple pane breakages - which
obviously never happened. I then asked for a repair costing and got 100 quid
per pane and around 2.5 hrs labour, which came to a max of 400 quid!!

Given this, and the fact that I have access to the TIS, I decided to have a
go myself, here is the 'quickest' way:

0) if you follow this information, it is at your own risk, N.B, E&OE; go to
a dealer if you are not sure what to do!!!!

1) remove rearmost roof panel - the one with the interior light. To do this,
remove the light by hand and detach wiring, adjust tailgate weather strip
and gently pull down panel until you can see some metal clips - using a long
screwdriver unclip them one by one - make sure you lever against the
metalwork rather than the trim otherwise you may force the clip out of the
plastic trim. Once you have all 8 out, the trim can be unlocated from a
simple slot system. Once the panel is off, you can see how all the other
clips will work. It maybe possible that brute force is OK and you can just
heave the panels off, but this is a car I want to keep

2) now remove the D-pillar trim, the bit that has the upper seat belt guide
for the rearmost seats. To do this remove the seat belt bolt and then adjust
the tailgate weather strip and gently pull away the trim until you see the
retaining clips - 6 in all. Once all unclipped, the trim can be manoeuvered
off - note the way it clips into the upper C pillar trim.

3) now remove the upper C-pillar trim, the bit that has the upper seat belt
guide for the middle passenger seats. To do this you can seem to get away
with brute force as there are only 2 clips at the top - force applied at the
top only. The trim will topple down and slide down the seat belt out of the
way.

4) now release (not remove) the top of the rear quarter panel, the bit below
the offending window. To do this remove the 6 screws (count them!). Once
this is done, there are only 2 clips under the window to release (brute
force?) to enable access to the offending electrical connections to the pane
sensor - tug away although note that not all clips are removed as you only
want the minimum access and hassle.

Here is the controversial bit - I made up a short bit of wire with 2 spade
terminals and joined the pane break sensor wires together completely
bypassing the window!

My thoughts on this are:

1) the pane sensor is superfluous when my car has an ultrasonic sensor,
2) the alarm system thinks that a zero resistance is an OK situation
3) the alarm system thinks that an open circuit is an error - 10 secs
flashing light on hazard switch when alarm set.
4) the alarm system thinks the original pane resistances were OK

Discuss?


Refitting is reversal of removal, although:

1) confirm that clips are secure on panels before pushing them in

2) note that the forward screw on the lower rear panel has a locating finger
nearby that must locate in the metal work before the trim can be refitted

3) seat belt bolts must have bolt locking compound applied

4) C-pillar trim has to be aligned so that the seatbelt adjuster works
properly - I took 2-3 goes getting the trim part to line up with the
seatbelt adjusting mechanism

5) if it won't clip back in, something is misaligned - be gentle

6) note all the little slots and fingers that the panels use to align
themselves with one another

7) adjust weather strips around all trims that were moved

8) it took me 2 hours to bypass both panes.


BTW, one pane had a resistance of 50 ohms and the other (my initial choice
as the faulty one) was 200 ohms.

Will it stop the alarm going off at 3 in the morning ....... time will tell.

HTHs,
Mike J.

 

Good bodge?. I must admit that I would have attempted to clean up
(Servisol Contact Cleaner) the offending contacts. *BUT* I would have
added a bypass switch for each side so that I could short out and
isolate each sensor. That way I could identify which has gone faulty
(half the dismantling) and switch it out until I could attack it again.
Dave

 

I agree that the what you have done is a sensible 'bodge' but the pane break
sensor is there because the ultrasonic sensors do not reach the back of
longer cars that well. That is why Vauxhall estates and MPVs have them.
Having said that, I would be willing to risk it as well!

--


Alan Steele

Steeles of Worthing
www.steeles.co.uk

 

I agree that the what you have done is a sensible 'bodge' but the pane

I guess that is the reason, but I then fail to understand why the tailgate
window is not similarily protected. Having the original windows should still
have a deterent affect though, and the CD, glovebox and car are still
protected to a high level.

Thanks for the reassurance; 400 quid for a cure that may fail again in 4
years time is just too much money.

No alarms for 2 days and nights...

Mike J

 

I think the tailgate is protected via the heated rear window circuit.

--


Alan Steele

Steeles of Worthing
www.steeles.co.uk