The subject of fitting cruise to a zafira is one that crops up quite frequently, and its something that I had been promising myself to have a go sometime. this picture [URL]http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=211877&highlight=zafira[/URL] has been posted a few times on this group. If you want to duplicate what I managed, then before you spend any money, here is what you look at. remove the top half of the steering column shroud. this is done by turning the steering wheel 90 degrees, removing the small circular blank plug (if fitted) and removing the crosshead screw. turn the wheel 180 degrees and repeat at the other side, then straighten the wheel and pop off the top half of the cover to reveal the picture in the above link. the plug you neet to locate is the one that is wrapped in black plastic insulating tape, then secured to the loom with white masking tape. note the tape(s) because this is important later. if you havnt got this plug then refit the shroud and smile wistfully at the thought of having cruise, because it would be a lot of messing about running wires here and there, from switches to the ecu, and making sure you got the right wires in the right place. you must want cruise pretty bad to contemplate doing all that. anyhow... last week some bastich stole the rear wiper arm off our 2000 zaf 1.8 elegance. While at the the local dealers I decided to ask about the parts and feeling flush, decided to splash out on the bits. I bought 1 replacement indicator stalk with the CC switches on the end. part no13142073 cost £27.30 + vat. 1 clutch pedal switch, part no 90492444 cost £12.65 + vat. These prices are retail. if you are in a position to get a trade discount, so much the better, but we arent talking about breaking the bank here. There has been some mention of differant brake pedal switches. I confirmed that there is only one kind of switch fitted. once you have the kit, remove the lower half of the column shroud. there is one screw underneath holding it on. also two starred screws at the front of the shroud that can only be seen with the top half off. however, mine has the adjustable column, so if applicable, fold down the adjustment lever to reveal a small socket cap screw holding the end fitting in place. remove and wiggle the shroud free. next, remove the indicator arm. simply squeeze top and bottom and slide out of its fitting, towards the passenger side. no screws etc hold it in place. once out, then simply remove (simply remove? god, I sound like a haynes manual!!)the plug from the rear of the switch. then carefully remove the tape from the unused plug. its a black plug, so be sure to get all the black tape off it. plug your new arm in, attatch the extra wires, then throw it all back together as above. fiddly parts are getting the rubber bellows on the stalks seated right in the shroud, and also the rubber grommet around the ignition switch. all this should take you 15-20 minutes. Now comes the fun part. The clutch pedal switch. this is very fiddly to do, and you cannot ignore it as apart from it being a safety item, CC will not work without it. first remove the lower panel, just above the pedals. there are 2 screws in the centre console to undo. next , two odd plastic catches along the top of the panel along the seam where it meets the upper panel. these look like one piece of plastic overlapping another to produce a 3/4 inch square. I broke one before I learned the trick was to squeeze the two parts together with pliers and pull out. then just pull the panel out. its held in place in the back by two big white clips that simply grip it like big clothes pegs. After I got this off, I could still see bugger all, so I removed the fusebox. still no joy, so I put it back. there is a piece of plastic ducting for the ventilation that runs behind the panel. this needs to come off. its simply held in place by 1 circular plastic clip at the right hand end of the duct.. pull the centre out, then pull the entire clip out.. Then wiggle out the ducting out. now you need to see up into the hole you have uncovered. try a small mirror if you want. I did, to no avail. only practical-but painful-way was to shove the seat all the way back and rest my shoulders on the sill with my head between the pedals. first find the seating for the clutch pedal switch. this is near the top of the pedal, and is a piece of metal with a square cutout, about 15mm square with a cutout at one corner. theres a lug on the switch as well, so it will only fit in one way. theres the switch body-white, the plunger that is moved by the pedal-black, and in between, a large red collar. make sure the collar is all the way out, then push the switch into position until it locks in place. then push the red collar back into the body of the switch. this expands the catches on the body so the switch cannot come out. now you need to find the plug that goes in it. I had been about an hour on and off looking for it. there is a very thick loom running just behind the lower lip of the upper panel (where the lower panel joins on), and I has found a small loop of wire by feel, but nothing else. Then I remembered how the unused plug for the indicator stalk had been secured with tape, stuck my head under again and sure enough there was some white masking tape over black plastic tape. I carefully picked this off by feel with fingernails-I didnt even dare thinking about going near with a sharp knife- and out dropped the plug! after connecting it to the switch, i tried putting it all back together, but I was cold, tired, hungry, it was getting dark and no matter what I did, I couldnt get the ventilation duct back on. Its now carefully hidden in the back of the garage. In about 10 years time I will find it again, and will then throw it away with a guilty smile... (the lower panel went on just fine though) However, after all that, it still didnt work. no big surprise though, as all accounts I had come across stated that the ecu needed cruise turning on. would have been nice to discover mine didnt though. There are a number of main agents within a reasonable distance of me, so I started ringing round them, telling them what i was doing, what I had done and what I wanted them to do, and how much would they charge. cheapest price was @ £35, so the following day I called in to book it in. spoke to the service manager, told him EXACTLY what I wanted, and why. He said no problem, confirmed the price and said bring it in the following day. did this, went through it again, re-confirmed the price, they said give them a couple of hours, so I wandered off down town window shopping, etc. 45 minutes later, got a call from the self same service manager saying that because of the parts I had fitted (genuine vauxhall parts from a main agent, btw) they would have to reprogram the ecu, not just download the fault codes. the cost would be 1 hours labour at @ £85, and did I want to go ahead. I told him I wasnt happy with this as I had made it very clear to him in person in two seperate conversations what I wanted, and both times confirmed the price. It was work that any main agent was capable of carrying out, and that I had come to him on the basis of the price he gave me. after a bit of huffing and puffing he agreed to do the work for the price quoted. 7 minutes later he rang again, saying it was done and working. so much for 1 hours labour.... Anyhow , now it works fine, and its all back together (well......).I'll do a follow up post if it should crap out . An important thing to learn from this is the tech2 bit that cant be done at home. ring round. get several quotes. make sure they understand EXACTLY what the job is, and why. (when I first mentioned tech2 to the service department the first thing they said was what were the symptoms. a couple of places had difficulty grasping the concept that there was nothing actually wrong with the car. even after the explanations) and confirm the price as often as possible with someone more senior than a receptionist whose word could be overruled with "...oh, sorry sir, they made a mistake. the actual price is...." Unfortunately, I didnt take any pictures to post, so you will just have to rely on this verbal diatrabe if you decide to try this at home. Mike BTW, as the zaf is built on an astra platform I would be academically interested to find out if this would be do-able with an astra.
