Corsa Radiator Fan Tempreture Switch

About 2 months ago, my 1.5TD (Isuzu engine) Corsa overheated because
the Tempreture switch did not kick the fan in. Because I was not
looking at the gauge, it caused the engine to boil over and the engine
stopped by itself (gods knows what damage that did). I had to change
the Radiator, the water pump, the thermostat and of course the
Radiator Fan tempreture switch. After doing all that, I let the engine
idle and sure enough when the tempreture got to about 96 on the gauge,
the fan switched on and the tempreture went down to the normal (for my
car) 90 on the gauge. The engine has lost some of its power, and very
occasionally does tend to overheat if pushed too hard, but I can live
with this (I can't afford to change cars at the moment). Then about
about two weeks ago. I just left my car idling again, the gauge went
up to about 100, and the fan did not kick in, so I changed the switch
again.. I just noticed today that the fan is not kicking in again (if
I short out the plug the fans runs fine). Does anybody know if there
is a dodgy batch of these thermostatic switches knocking about, the
replacements were all genuine opel (Vauxhaul) parts. Or does anybody
have any thoughts on my woes.

 

It's unlikely that you have bought more than one faulty switch. There is
more chance that hot water isn't getting to the switch. Possibly a bad water
pump, or blockage in the system.

 

I'd be more inclined to suspect an airlock

 

If the switch is faulty the Vauxhall dealer will supply another one under
warranty but I doubt if this is the case.

Did you bleed the system fully?

--


Alan Steele

Steeles of Worthing
www.steeles.co.uk

 

OK, I also find it hard to believe that I could have so many
Thermostatic Switch failures. Bearing in mind that this switch is
situated at the bottom of the Radiator, I assumed that hot water would
have found its way to the switch, air locks or not. When reading the
Haynes manual, it does not suggest bleeding the system fully, so have
not done so, how do I do it properly?

 

I have now tested the Thermostatic switch I took out, did the test
where you place the switch in a pan of boiling water and it does not
switch over, so is definatly faulty, yet if I short the connector out
on the car the fan runs properly and I have also checked that the
correct rating fuse is in the supply line. I would have thought that
if it was a fan motor fault, it would have taken out the fuse before
taking out the switch, I can only assume there are a batch of dodgy
switches, anybody else had the same experience?