[QUOTE="Bob"] Having suffered from a "quick to get gummed up" ICV and recognising the symptoms, I second your ICV diagnosis. Mine only stopped getting gummed up after I fitted an oil separator. Bob[/QUOTE] Well, brought the car into an opel/vauxall dealership yesterday to get the fault codes read. 10 f/c showed up. The guy there then erased them and started the engine again to see which code appeared first. It was the idle control valve and Rpm(Crank Sensor) that appeared first. I bought both the idle control valve -which was a little black thing (when i opened the old one later it consisted of a motor with a screw shaft which turned a cogged wheel to push a plunger thing in/out which would press against the idle lever on the trottle body lever -is this an idle stepper motor or an idle control valve?)and the crank sensor. The crank sensor worked cause now the car dosen't cut out when it the car gets warm but the ICV didn't make any odds. The car is still ticking erratic. Interestingly when i had a closer look at the ICV, i noticed it didn't make contact with the Throttle lever at all and didn't plunge in/out, therefore there must be no volts getting to it. So while i had the old one open i put current through it to see if it worked and it did. this makes me think that idle control fault is more to do with the wiring or the source of volts to it rather then the unit itself- wasted ?150 on an idle control valve.Could this mean a fried ECu- what lies between the ICV and ECu, fuses, relays etc or could the volts not be coming through because of another fault in some other sensor. the technician also told me that the car is OBD compliant but i have my doubts, i read somewhere that a sign of OBD complinant is when the engine checklight dashlight is an outline rather than filled in, as it is on my Corsa. Bepo a 2000 1.0 12V corsa should be OBD compliant..
