alleged solution to maf sensor problems . con or what ?

came across this link on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10404&item=4537738589&rd=1
any one ever use this service ? im guessing its just a faq on how to
clean the sensor/carb etc.
thing is .. is the info on sale here freely available anywhere and
can someone post it ?
Thanks.

 

Think this is what you are looking for :
NO DOBOUT MOST OF YOU WITH ECOTEC CAVERLIER, CALIBRA,ASTRA OR VECTRA HAVE
SUFFERED STALLING WHEN APPROACHING JUNCTIONS OR ROUNDABOUTS,MAYBE HAVING
STOPPED AT A JUNCTION THE IDLE IS ERRATIC BEFORE THE ENGINE CUTS OUT OR THE
IDLE WONT COME DOWN.

NOT OT WORRY VAUXHALL HAVE A FIX!

THE PROBLEM IS BAISICLY TWO FOLD FIRSTLY THE SMALL CRANK CASE BREATHER
(SMALL HOSE FROM CAM COVER TO THROTTLE/INLET MANIFOLD)GETS BLOCKED AT THE
BRASS FITTING IN THE MANIFOLD,THE FITTING HAS A VERY SMALL HOLE AND IS
ATTATHCED SO TO DRAW CRANK CASE GASSES INTO THE MANIFOLD ON HIGH VACUUM,
SUCH AS OVER RUN.

THE EFFECT IS THAT ON OVER RUN WHILST APPROACHING A JUNCTION NO GASSES CAN
BE DRAWN DIRECTLY INTO THE ENGINE, THE ONLY PATH IS THROUGH THE LARGE
BREATHER HOSE AND THROUGH THE IDLE VALVE AROUND THE CLOSED THROTTLE, THIS
SOON FOULS THE VALVE WITH STICKY CRANK CASE DEPOSITS AND OIL CAUSING IT NOT
TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY, ALSO THE GASSES CAN AFFECT THE AIR MASS METER WICH
MEASURES AIR FLOW BY THE COOLING EFFECT OF THE AIR OVER ITS HEATED SURFACE,
SINCE THE GASSES ARE WARM A LARGE QUANTITY OF GASSES CAN CAUSE THE AIR MASS
METER TO REGISTER A TROUBLE CODE "AIR MASS MERER VOLTS LOW" ADDING TO YOUR
PROBLEMS.

REMEDY: 1)CLEAN THE AIR MASS METER WITH A QUICK SQUIRT OF BRAKE SPRAY OR
SIMMILAR.

2)UNBLOCK THE SMALL BREATHE FITTING "DO NOT DRILL IT OUT" ALSO MAKE SURE THE
THROTTLE VALVVE PLATE IS CLEAN

3)REPLACE THE IDLE VALVE, THEY ARE ABOUT £110:00 + VAT, DONT BOTHER TO CLEAN
IT THERE IS A DAMPING CHAMBER INSIDE WHICH HOLD SOME OIL AND YOU CAN NEVER
GET IT ALL OUT.

4)FIT VAUXHALL PART NO 9193502 "OIL TRAP" TO THE BREATHER PIPE AT THE FRONT
OF THE ENGINE, YOU WILL NEED TO CUT THE BENT RUBBER HOSE BETWEEN THE CAM
COVER AND THE METAL PIPE FIT THE TRAP WITH THE WHITE DOT FACING UP SECURE
WITH HOSE CLIPS.

5) HAVE YOUR IDLE SPEED ADJUTED TO 864 RPM BY YOUR DEALER, THEY USE TECH 1
AND THE ADJUSTMENT IS TO THE ECU "NEVER ADJUST THE THROTTLE STOP"

I HAVE SEEN ALLSORTS,THROTTLE PLATES WITH HOLES DRILLED IN THEM OR TPS
SENSORS BUTCHERD TO CORRECT THE IDLE VOLTS ARTER THE STOP HAS BEEN WOUND IN
ETC ETC.

THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY TO DO IT SO DO IT PROPERLY!

Or you could :

Ok i've just looked under my engine, i admit i'm no expert but this is what
I see.They have cut the big pipe that goes from the top of the engine, to
the very big air pipe (behind the air mass meter).

After they have cut it they have have put a platic junction box (it says
ford on it!) inbetween the cut pipes. They then run a small new pipe (think
it's a vacume pipe) from this to a sensor that is attached to the big pipe
at the front of the engine. It's the one that has a open coupling on it.

I'm getting some camera film developed, and if you want i will take a photo
and post in on here. Click here for the picture

Also my car was there for an MOT and they replaced some bearings in the
rocker box (for free). Must be another vauxhall design problem.

Jason

Or another attempt doing this:

I seem to have found a cure without resorting to additional plumbing - time
will tell...

2.Air-idle valve - remove it from the side face of the throttle body -
careful not to damage the gasket.The valve separates into 2 halves
(cross-head screws)- don't loose the small rubber o-ring which seals the
join. On the motor half there is a small spring loaded piston retained by a
fixed brass bush - if you gently push this in and out with a stout wire
whilst spraying with ether-based carb cleaner, it is possible to wash out
the motor body to prevent sticking. Repeat with WD40 to lubricate. The valve
half can be cleaned simularly by spraying whilst working the plunger in and
out against the spring. I used grease on the gasket when refitting.

3. Small-bore emission hose from cam-cover to manifold stub - I found that
both the hose itself and the manifold stub were blocked solid. I replaced
the hose - use worm-drive clips in place of the spring type to make sure of
a complete seal at both ends.

4.Manifold stub - the bore is about the same as coat-hanger wire and must be
completely clear - but don't enlarge it. I sharpened a coat-hanger wire bent
at 90 degrees to gain access - the bent bit needs to be about 30mm long to
reach right through the bore. Have a good poke from outside and inside the
throttle barrel to remove all traces of deposit. Careful not to drop it down
the barrel. Access to refit the hose to the stub is tight - it's easier if
you temporarily unbolt the throttle cable bracket and move it all to one
side.



From Howard



CAMSHAFT SENSOR MODIFICATION


ECU error Code 92 is a cam shaft sensor failure.

Eventually they admitted there is a small mod to the sensor

itself. The mouting hole in the sensor is enlarged to allow it to

sit closer to the switch lobes on the cam.

Problem solved.

 

Thanks for the post, just as i thought, the information can be found
easy enough with an hour or so of googling.
since cleaning the carb and meter with reddex my problems have just
about gone.
Cheers.

 

Why dont you view his feedback and ask a few of the people who bought the
info if they would be willing to share it with you?
Worth a try )

Graham